TECHNIQUE - Pleating fabric process
PLEATING FABRIC PROCESS .
Pleating is a technique that has been used for hundreds of years.
It works on concepts of heat setting a fabric between a two sided cardboard folded mould.
The two sides moulds are made from a card coated in resin to prevent the moisture and heat from the steaming process from ruining them. They are marked up and scored with a blunt awl before being hand folded into their three dimensional shapes, much like origami.
One side of the mould is then stretched out and weighted before the fabric follows on top. The fabric is smoothed out (to make sure the cleanest fold edges and design are created) before the second layer of the mould is layered on top. .
Having all three layers stretched out and weighted, the process of gradually shifting the mould into shape slowly with the weights still holding the fabric takes place. .
Once the mould sides have retracted to their folded states with te fabric sandwiched between, they are then rolled up and secured with fabric ties for steaming.
The fabric in the mould is placed into a steamer box for around 30mins (fabric fibre dependant), and allowed to cool before it is unrolled.
The cooling allows the fibres to set into the origami folded patterns.
The coated two sided moulds are resilient and able to be used more than 50 times which is lucky considering more complex moulds can take upwards of a month to fold and create the first time. .
Images from http://www.foldability.co.uk/blog/how-to-pleat-fabric and their instagram page.
#fashion #artist #design #designer#costume #costumedesign #walkingart #art#fashiontechnology #fashiontech#inspiration #clothes #fabric #films#photography #photoshoot#fashiondesigner #astitchintimeandfilm#form #dress #structure #artisfashion#fashionisart #hautecouture #haute#couture #couturefashion #couturedress#3D #pleating